Tiwai Island in Sierra Leone: A little-known destination for wildlife observation in West Africa

A small island in the Seto Inland Sea has gained a new identity through contemporary art. Naoshima's museums, unusual installations, and picturesque sea views now attract visitors from all over the world.

On the island, where fishing boats line the harbor and narrow streets are adorned with traditional houses, contemporary art has become an unexpected addition to the marine landscape. Covering an area of about eight square kilometers, the Japanese island has become a globally recognized cultural destination.

This transformation process began in the 1980s when publisher Tetsuhiko Fukutake and then-mayor Chikatsugu Miyake shared a common vision of integrating art, education, and nature. The first major development occurred in 1989 with the opening of the Naoshima International Camp, followed by the Benesse House Museum in 1992. In subsequent decades, the project grew into what is known today as the Benesse Art Site Naoshima.

Instead of simply building galleries, the goal was to integrate art directly into the island itself. Old houses, coastal areas, and the surrounding landscape became part of the overall experience. This new cultural identity developed parallel to Naoshima's long-standing copper smelting industry, which remains an important component of local life.

Japanese architect Tadao Ando played a significant role in shaping Naoshima's identity. His projects combine concrete, natural light, and geometric forms, often making the buildings as interesting as the exhibits inside them.

The Benesse House Museum, opened in 1992, combines museum and hotel functions, where artworks are displayed both inside and on the adjacent grounds. Another outstanding project by Ando is the Chichu Museum, opened in 2004. It is built predominantly underground to preserve the surrounding landscape and uses natural light to illuminate its exhibition halls.

The museum features permanent works by Claude Monet, James Turrell, and Walter De Maria. Among the main exhibits are five Monet paintings of 'Water Lilies,' as well as installations exploring perception, space, and light.

Some of Naoshima's most interesting art spaces are located among its residential streets. The 'Art House' project, launched in 1998, transformed vacant traditional buildings in the Honmura district into modern art spaces. There are now seven locations there, each with its unique artistic concept. Visitors can explore them on foot, moving between installations, past local homes and businesses.

For a more unconventional experience, there is the public bathhouse Naoshima Bat Ai Love, designed by artist Shinro Ohtake. Its colorful interiors transform the ordinary Japanese experience into an extraordinary artistic event.

The pumpkins are also worth mentioning. Yayoi Kusama's Yellow Pumpkin stands by the sea near Benesse House, and the Red Pumpkin is located near Miyanoura Port. Their bright colors and characteristic patterns have made them some of the island's most recognizable attractions.

Naoshima's art scene continues to evolve. On May 31, 2025, the New Museum of Art Naoshima opened near Honmura. It was also designed by Tadao Ando and focuses on contemporary art from Japan and wider Asia, adding another dimension to the island's cultural offering.

The island is also part of a broader art route in the Seto Inland Sea. Nearby are Teshima and Inujima, which have their own museums and installations, making the entire region worth exploring beyond Naoshima.

Ferry services connect Naoshima with Uno Port in Okayama Prefecture and Takamatsu in Kagawa Prefecture. The journey to Miyanoura Port takes about 20 minutes from Uno and 50 to 60 minutes from Takamatsu.

Upon arrival on the island, visitors can use local buses, rent bicycles, or explore on foot. Since the attractions are spread across different areas, it is recommended to allocate more than a few hours for a visit. Some museums and art spaces require advance online booking, including timed tickets for the Chichu Museum and selected Art House project installations. Before traveling, check the official Benesse Art Site calendar, as operating days and entry conditions vary.

Overnight stays are also available: Benesse House offers accommodation within its complex, while guesthouses and other options are located in other parts of the island.

The transformation of Naoshima serves as a reminder of how art can give a place a new identity without erasing its distinctive features. Between the museums and installations remain the fishing boats, quiet streets, and rhythms of everyday island life. Industrial history and the contemporary art scene coexist, giving the island a unique character.

Sulawesi, located between Borneo and the Moluccas, has a shape resembling the letter K. Its volcanic highlands, dense tropical forests, and coastal areas support exceptional biodiversity, while its unique cultures offer travelers a different perspective on Indonesia. Despite the significant distances, the island rewards those willing to deviate from standard tourist routes.

Off the coast of Manado is Bunaken National Marine Park, which protects coral reefs, steep underwater walls, and diverse marine habitats within the Coral Triangle. Diving is the main attraction here, but snorkeling offers a more accessible way to explore shallow reefs. Local operators in Manado can arrange boat trips to surrounding islands; it is recommended to choose responsible operators, maintain distance from marine animals, and avoid touching corals.

Near Bitung is Tangkoko Reserve, which protects a tropical forest inhabited by Sulawesi black macaques, tarsiers, and hornbills. Tarsiers, tiny nocturnal animals, are one of the main attractions due to their large eyes, which help them navigate the forest after dark. The best way to find them is by taking excursions with experienced local guides. Black macaques are more often seen during the day; distance should be maintained, and they should never be fed. Staying near the reserve facilitates organizing early morning and evening trips.

In the highlands of South Sulawesi, Tana Toraja is known for its rice paddies, green valleys, and traditional Tongkonan houses with characteristic curved roofs, reflecting generations of family history. Rantepao serves as a convenient base for visiting Kete Kesu, where traditional houses and rice barns are located, as well as Lemo rock tombs. The burial caves in Londa offer another glimpse into Torajan ancestral traditions. Funeral ceremonies, known as Rambu Solo, unite families and communities to honor the deceased, sometimes over several days. These events hold significant cultural importance and are not tourist performances; if you are invited, you should follow the family's wishes and ask permission before taking photos.

Trekking between villages allows for a closer look at mountain life, and the local coffee is worth trying. Several days should be allocated to this region, as the journey from Makassar takes a long time.

In southeastern Sulawesi, Wakabobi National Park protects extensive coral reefs within the Coral Triangle. Its name combines the first syllables of four islands: Wangi-Wangi, Kaledupa, Tomia, and Binongko. Divers come for the diverse underwater landscapes and marine fauna, while snorkelers can explore shallow reefs. Tomia is a popular diving base, Hoga Island attracts snorkelers, and Wangi-Wangi serves as a gateway to the archipelago. This region is also home to coastal communities, including the Bajo, or Sama-Bajau, whose maritime traditions span parts of Southeast Asia. Permission should be sought before photographing residents, and local businesses should be supported whenever possible. Reaching Wakabobi requires careful planning, as connectivity varies depending on the island, and boat crossings depend on sea conditions.

Central Sulawesi offers forested highlands and archaeological sites outside the island's more famous destinations. Lore Lindu National Park protects important wildlife habitats, and the adjacent area contains ancient megalithic structures included in the UNESCO Tentative List of World Heritage Sites. The region provides opportunities for trekking and birdwatching, as well as insight into Indonesia's lesser-known archaeological history. Further south, Bira is famous for its beaches and traditional shipbuilding. In Manado, try Tinutuan, a vegetable rice soup, alongside fresh fish and chili-rich dishes characteristic of Minahasan cuisine.

Local markets and eateries provide an easy way to experience regional cuisine and daily life. Rather than trying to cover the entire island, it is better to select a few areas that match your interests. The optimal time to visit depends on the region. In most of southern Sulawesi, the dry months are typically from May to September or October, making travel and hiking more comfortable. Some Torajan funeral ceremonies take place between July and September, although dates vary by family. Diving conditions differ between Bunaken and Wakabobi, so information should be confirmed with local operators before booking. Manado is a useful entry point to North Sulawesi, while Makassar provides access to the southern highlands. Accessing remote islands may require domestic flights and boat transfers, so flexibility should be built into the itinerary. Sulawesi combines coral reefs, rare wildlife, highland villages, and cultural traditions that remain part of daily life. Exploring this place requires time, but the reward is an experience beyond beach relaxation. For travelers seeking another side of Indonesia, Sulawesi is an invitation to explore at a slower pace, with curiosity and respect for the people and environment that make it exceptional.

The arrival of spring and summer in South Africa is marked by the return of migratory birds, which travel thousands of kilometers to feed, breed, and raise their young in various natural areas across the country. For birdwatchers, this seasonal shift offers the opportunity to see familiar visitors alongside species that spend most of the year elsewhere. From European swallows soaring over open fields to gulls exploring muddy estuaries in search of food, these arrivals are part of a remarkable annual journey connecting South Africa with ecosystems worldwide.

However, migration is not just a change of scenery; it is a complex journey dictated by weather conditions, food availability, and the state of habitats upon which the birds depend during their travels. Many summer visitors to South Africa breed in the Northern Hemisphere, particularly in Europe and parts of Asia, before moving south as temperatures drop and food becomes scarce. Others arrive from other parts of Africa, following seasonal rainfall and changes in food resources.

For migratory insects, the warm months in South Africa provide an abundance of flying insects and other invertebrates. Swallows, swifts, and many cuckoos utilize these seasonal food supplies, while European bee-eaters hunt insects in open areas.

European Bee-eaters

Gulls have different priorities. Species, including the common sandpiper and the little tern, move from northern breeding grounds to South African wetlands and coastal areas where they feed on small aquatic animals. These habitats provide the resources necessary for them to survive until it is time to head north again.

Migration involves risks. Birds must endure storms, strong winds, arid landscapes, and uninhabitable areas. Many require resting and feeding spots during their journey, making healthy wetlands, rivers, and coastal estuaries vital for their survival.

These familiar visitors breed throughout Europe and parts of Asia before heading to Africa for the non-breeding season. Their long, forked tails and maneuverable flight make them easily recognizable as they fly over fields and wetlands, catching insects in the air. They rely on an abundance of insects and open spaces where they can feed.

European bee-eaters, with their bright green, yellow, and chestnut plumage, add color to the South African summer. They breed in Europe, North Africa, and parts of West Asia, with many heading south during the winter in the Northern Hemisphere. They should be looked for on protruding branches or wires before they suddenly dart out to catch flying insects.

Several species of cuckoos appear in South Africa during the warm months, including the African emerald cuckoo and the red-breasted cuckoo, known for its characteristic call. Many migrate within Africa rather than from Europe. Their movements often follow seasonal conditions and the availability of caterpillars and other insects.

These small coastal birds undertake incredible journeys between northern breeding grounds and African feeding zones. They gather in suitable wetlands, lagoons, and estuaries, where exposed mudflats and shallow water offer rich feeding opportunities. Their survival depends on the availability of sufficient undisturbed habitat to replenish strength before the next stage of migration.

Migration dates vary depending on the species, weather, and conditions at breeding sites. Some birds begin arriving even before spring, while others arrive later in the season. Therefore, visiting a promising birdwatching spot never guarantees success but can offer an opportunity to observe the seasonal rhythms of nature.

The Langebaan Lagoon and its surrounding flats attract gulls and other waterfowl, especially when feeding conditions are favorable. It is recommended to bring binoculars and survey the coastline for small birds feeding along the water's edge. The park is also a good place to assess how coastal habitats support birds year-round.

This birdwatching destination is known for its wetlands and high-altitude grasslands. Summer brings increased activity as resident birds nest, and seasonal visitors utilize the area. Waterfowl should be sought near the wetlands while observing the surrounding grasslands for species preferring open habitats.

The network of lakes, estuaries, marshes, beaches, and coastal forests makes this a valuable location for waterfowl and other wildlife. Migratory gulls and other seasonal visitors use diverse habitats, while resident species benefit from the same rich food sources.

The reserve protects an important seasonal floodplain and wetland system. Seasonal rains can transform the landscape, creating feeding and breeding opportunities for waterfowl. The number and diversity of birds you see will depend on the water level, so check the latest conditions before visiting.

The estuary near Welderdrift is an excellent spot for watching gulls and waterfowl feeding in shallow water and on exposed mudflats. Migrants depend on these productive feeding areas to build up energy reserves, making the estuary a crucial stopover in their seasonal journeys.

World Migratory Bird Day was observed on October 10, 2026, drawing attention to the importance of protecting migratory birds and the habitats they need. However, their conservation cannot be limited to one day. Flooding, pollution, coastal development, and climate change can affect food availability and safe resting places. Changes in precipitation levels can also alter water levels, leaving birds with fewer suitable feeding areas precisely when they need them most.

Bird enthusiasts can contribute by responsibly visiting natural areas, maintaining distance from nesting and feeding birds, and recording observations through citizen science platforms such as the South African Bird Atlas Project. These observations help researchers track changes in bird distribution and seasonal movements.

The next time a swallow flies overhead or a flock of gulls gathers along an estuary, take a moment to consider the journey behind the spectacle. These birds connect continents, climates, and ecosystems, relying on a chain of healthy habitats that extends far beyond the borders of South Africa. Their arrival is a welcome sign of the changing season, but it is also a reminder that the future of migration depends on protecting the places where birds feed, rest, and raise their young.