The Uhahalamba gorges resemble landscapes from the film 'The Land Before Time'; the vast plains depicted in Universal Studios dinosaur animation are visible from the 'Dragon's Tail' ridge on Sentinel Peak. The expedition's goal was to reach this view from Tugela Falls, the highest waterfall in Africa. Members of the expedition team, equipped with ropes and carabiners, prepared to ascend Sentinel and reach the waterfall by traversing the slopes.
This trek marked the completion of the author's participation in the 44th geographical and humanitarian expedition 'Protector' led by Kingsley Holgate, titled 'Following the Dragon.' The expedition traced the entire Drakensberg range from Iron Crown in Limpopo to Rhodes in the Eastern Cape Highlands. Traveling in Defender 130 vehicles, the team connects remote valleys, high passes, and local communities along the escarpment, combining adventure with malaria prevention, spreading the spectacle Rite to Sight, supporting early childhood development, and providing environmental conservation education for schoolchildren. The foundation also notes the 25th anniversary of its partnership with Land Rover and Defender, which have helped Holgate's team make a difference since the beginning of the century.
For the first two days, the author spent time in a camp with the team in Golden Gate National Park, where eggs of Massospondylus, dating back 200 million years, were extracted from sandstone rocks above the camp, containing the oldest known dinosaur embryos. The park is also home to the Kgodumodumo Dinosaur Interpretation Centre, spanning 120 million kg, opened in June 2025, which consolidates the region's paleontological history in a center filled with full-scale models and interactive exhibits. The name is borrowed from a Basotho legend about a giant beast, fittingly near the Dragon itself. During these two days, park manager Paddy Gordon educated the group on the magic and history of the area.
From Golden Gate, the column ascended towards the border with Lesotho, where the ridge offered a perfect view of the peak they planned to conquer the next day, and of the vast amphitheater below. In the morning, guides advised waiting for the fog to clear but to bring a raincoat. When the sun broke through the 'Dragon's Breath' mist, they set off like hobbits on a seven-hour hike, feeling the pressure of altitude in their chests while trekking through the foothills in search of Sentinel, located at an altitude of 3165 meters above sea level.
There are three ways to reach the top of Tugela Falls: two nearly vertical ladders fixed to the rock, a steep ascent through the Bicorn Buttress gorge, or the 'Iron Path'—Africa's only Via Ferrata. Expedition member Mike Nixon explained that the existence of the 'Via' (Path) Ferrata (Iron) is linked to an unusual deal from World War I. In 1915, Italy was effectively bribed to join the Allies, receiving the promise of a significant portion of Austro-Hungarian territory according to a secret London treaty, and soon became involved in the mountain war on the front passing through the Dolomites. Moving troops and supplies across the vertical limestone using traditional methods was impossible, so both sides hammered iron steps, ladders, and fixed ropes into the rock, allowing ordinary soldiers to climb terrain previously intended for mountaineers. After the war, the equipment remained in place.
Unfortunately, the author learned a historical lesson when the group descended the gorge via a backup route. After experiencing the thrill of being connected to the mountain only by a rope and two carabiners while climbing the slopes at an altitude of about 3000 meters above sea level, overlooking the ravines below, adverse weather took over. The morning sun gave way to dense clouds and a stormy sky as lightning began to move rapidly across the landscape. After the first section of the Via Ferrata, there was no possibility of turning back. The guides decided to use the backup route for the group's safety. It was disappointing not to complete the route, but incredibly powerful to feel the energy of the elements and the immense heights during the first part of the ascent.
Although most of us feel that it is not over and we will try to return to climb Sentinel again, the trek was incredible nonetheless. The weather improved as they reached the bottom of the gorge, and while some returned to Witsishoek, several remained to blaze a new path to the Ladders to ascend the two steel strips attached to the side of the mountain. Some team members proceeded to Tugela Falls via the Ladders, and although they did not reach the summit, they accomplished the most important mission of the day: reaching Tugela Falls to fill the expedition calabash. Previously filled with a thin stream of water above a dinosaur footprint in the highlands of Golden Gate National Park, the calabash has traveled with every Holgate expedition since 1993, collecting symbolic water from the start of the journey and from iconic rivers and lakes along the route. The calabash will be emptied in a ceremony when the trip concludes in November.
On the first night in Golden Gate National Park, Paddy spoke about the spirit of the mountains, the intangible nature that permeates the sandy and clay slopes. Enveloped in the 'Dragon's Breath' and under the dominion of the elements, one truly understands the soul of these ancient escarpments.
Witsishoek
The Witsishoek mountain lodge, located beneath Sentinel Peak, serves as the gateway to the 'Dragon's Tail' Via Ferrata. Helmets, harness systems, and straps are available for rent at the lodge; day visitors are welcome, and a transfer by SUV to the Sentinel parking lot should be booked to conserve energy for the ascent.



