If you thought fashion week was just about watching very attractive people walk in clothes you probably can't afford, the brand Diesel wanted to make some adjustments. The presentation of the Spring/Summer 2027 collection in Milan transformed the runway show experience into something significantly stranger, using a specially created club, a tense atmosphere, and 200 performers hidden among the audience.
A series of performative interventions, organized by the art collective (LA)HORDE from Marseille, ran parallel to the Diesel SS27 show. The performers interacted both with each other and with the guests. The result was intentionally unpredictable, fluctuating between strange, unsettling, and sensual moments, meaning that some spectators suddenly became part of the show, rather than just observers.
This performance was designed to create the same intensity as the clothing itself. Glenn Martens' final collection for Diesel, as expected, was not restrained. Denim was covered and laser-treated to imitate leather; garments were distorted and merged together, revealing exposed skin, while trousers and skirts featured distinctly low waists.
Furthermore, micro-denim shorts were presented—and when Diesel says 'micro,' it truly means minimal size. The collection's finale pushed denim shorts to the absolute minimum, existing somewhere between hot shorts and a 'forgot to finish dressing' look.
All of this aligned with Martens' philosophy of fashion as a party: loud, sexy, playful, and slightly chaotic. While the clothing certainly gave people plenty to talk about, it was the 200 performers hidden among the audience that ensured no one could simply sit on the sidelines. Although many people were strongly repelled and vowed to never buy from the brand again, it undoubtedly attracted attention.