Traveling on the 1884 Maria-Fumaça in Paraná provides a nostalgic experience, with elements such as hair in the wind, a hat on the head, saxophone music in the carriage, and sparks from the locomotive near the face, contrasting with the current date of 2026.
The locomotive, named Trem Caiçara, is over 140 years old and travels a route of 16 kilometers between Antonina and Morretes, on the coast of Paraná, using the old Dona Isabel Railway. Although it is a relatively short trip, lasting just over an hour, it offers details that evoke past eras.
Unlike the route leaving the capital, this journey does not feature large canyons or dizzying viaducts, but the carriages maintain the appearance of old passenger cars, and the sound of the tracks accompanies the entire journey.
Locomotive History
Before departure, the train conductor shares information about railway history. The locomotive used is Mogul No. 11, manufactured by Baldwin Locomotive Works in the United States, and was acquired by Paraná for the construction of the Paranaguá-Curitiba railway. It began operating during the final phase of the railway's construction, inaugurated in 1885, and continued transporting passengers and cargo until the 1950s, when it stopped running.
After remaining inactive for thirty years, the restoration process of the locomotive began in 2018, under the direction of the Brazilian Railway Preservation Association (ABPF). Thus, in 2020, the current Trem Caiçara was reactivated for the stretch between Antonina and Morretes.
Tour Structure and Experience
The passenger cars are simple, consisting of two upholstered carriages and a third with wooden seats. There is no distinction of categories or seating in the reservation; seats are assigned automatically according to the order of purchase. The wooden carriage is only used when the two upholstered carriages are full. Upon arrival, passengers can simply sit down and wait for departure.
During the journey, the narrator's window remained open, allowing occasional entry of smoke and sparks. The tour evokes a pleasant feeling of nostalgia, the feeling of 'missing what I never lived'. Even the ticket contributes to this atmosphere, as although it is bought online, a physical pass is handed out that the train conductor stamps during the trip, turning it into a souvenir.
There is also an old suitcase available in the carriage for photographic purposes. The train conductor uses this prop to tell an anecdote about the value it could contain, generating laughter and photos before the start of the trip.
When the whistle blows, the steam train begins its slow movement. The houses of Antonina gradually appear among the vegetation. The sound of the train attracts the attention of people on the street, and it is noticeable to see some residents stopping their activities to wave, although for them the scene may be routine.
At certain points, there are signs requesting the driver to use the horn, and the classic whistle resonates through the neighborhood while the smoke covers the front of the locomotive.
Progressively, Antonina falls behind, and the scenery transforms, presenting banana trees, bridges, rivers, and mangroves, in addition to the Atlantic Forest. However, the locomotive's smoke can obscure photographs.
In a specific section, it was possible to see the Hangar in Morretes, where an airplane is part of the decoration of a place designated for happy hour, and an animated group was filming and waving.
Railway and City Information
The stretch traveled by Trem Caiçara is part of the Dona Isabel Railway, inaugurated in 1892. This branch line was built with the aim of connecting Antonina to the railway network, at a time when the city held great economic relevance due to its port and Matarazzo industries. Currently, Antonina has a calmer pace of life, maintaining the classic air of a small town.
The train advances at a reduced speed and occasionally needs to stop or slow down for operational reasons. In the narrator's case, there was a stop of about twenty minutes while waiting for the Curitiba-Morretes train to pass.
The journey gains a soundtrack with saxophone notes. Over time, passengers begin to sing, and when 'Trem das Onze' by Adoniran Barbosa plays, vocal ability becomes irrelevant.
As the landscape passes, passengers also learn about the region through a folder containing photographs and clippings of old newspapers that narrate stories of Antonina, Morretes, and the railway itself. Objects such as the spikes used on the tracks complement the stories told during the journey.
The tour also offers small treats, such as tasting a banana cachaça, served in small portions in a plastic cup, described as delicious.
The narrator's carriage only had adults, but when there are children, toy trains are distributed to accompany them.
There is also the moment of the hat, where the red hat with the inscription 'Train Conductor' circulates among the passengers. When wearing it, the narrator observed the calm landscape, dominated by the intense green of nature, as Morretes approached.
Arrival and Logistics
Upon arriving at the Morretes Railway Station, disembarkation occurs, marking the return to the city's rhythm. However, it is possible to continue exploring railway history without leaving the station, as the House of Memory operates there, displaying documents, photographs, and artifacts related to the history of Morretes and the regional tracks.
After the station, it is possible to walk to the center, where restaurants, historic mansions, and shops are located, making it a great opportunity to try barreado, a typical dish of the area.
For those wishing to return to Antonina, it is possible to purchase road transport along with the train ticket, with departures generally occurring shortly after the arrival of the steam train.
Trem Caiçara operates on Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays, with departures in both directions. From Antonina to Morretes, boarding is at 2 PM; in the opposite direction, the departure is at 4 PM. It is recommended to arrive at the station about 30 minutes in advance.
The Antonina Railway Station is located on Rua Uruguai, and the Morretes station is at Rua Padre Saviniano, 768. The train accommodates 160 passengers, and the trip duration is approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes. Tickets cost R$ 150 (full price) and R$ 135 (half price), with children under 5 free. Including the return road transport (bus or van) adds R$ 23 to the cost, and tickets can be purchased on the official website.