In 2020, a cheese produced in the Campos de Cima da Serra region, in southern Brazil, achieved the status of the first national product to receive a Designation of Origin (DO). This cheese, known as queijo serrano, has a protected indication valid specifically for items manufactured in approximately 30 municipalities in Rio Grande do Sul and part of Santa Catarina.
The recognition covers over two hundred years of tradition in the recipe, which is maintained through an artisanal process using raw milk from cows raised on high-altitude pastures in this Brazilian area. The DO ensures not only the ancestral production methods but also the climatic uniqueness of the region, which gives the milk distinct characteristics from other locations.
The combination of cultural and geographical elements results in a semi-hard cheese that, besides international awards and the designation of origin, continues to please consumers and receive honors. In Rio Grande do Sul, the manufacturing method of this food was declared intangible heritage of the state in 2024.
Campo Nativo Cheesery
Although authentic queijo serrano is found in various municipalities in Campos de Cima da Serra, a significant part of the current production originates at Queijaria Campo Nativo. This cheesery is located within the Parador complex, a charming inn near the famous canyons of Cambará do Sul.
This location functions as the first maturation and aging center for queijo serrano in this geographical area, establishing itself as a kind of hub for this special flavor. Neighboring producers send their cheeses to the cheesery, where specialized chambers ensure that the maturation process follows the standards protected by the DO. To be considered correct, the cheese must undergo a minimum maturation period of 60 days, kept between 5ºC and 12ºC, and the milk must never have been previously pasteurized.
Visitors to Queijaria Campo Nativo have the opportunity to learn about the process and more, being able to inspect the curing room and taste the cheeses, accompanied by pairings with local wines and other typical products of the Gaúcho and Santa Catarina highlands. The space receives visitors daily, from 9 am to 5 pm, and more details can be obtained through the cheesery's official channels.
Differences between GI and DO
The titles granted by the National Institute of Intellectual Property (INPI) often cause confusion among the general public, making it important to understand the distinctions. Geographical Indication (GI) is the most comprehensive classification, divided into Indication of Provenance (IP) or Designation of Origin (DO).
The main difference lies in the degree of proof required to obtain the title: an IP is validated by the historical tradition of a region in producing a specific item, highlighting products famous for their regional origin. The DO, in addition to the human aspect, obligatorily requires proof of a natural influence, such as climate and soil. To possess a Designation of Origin, the product must prove, through technical reports, that its flavor and characteristics are exclusive to its traditional region, making it impossible to replicate them elsewhere even following the same techniques.
The queijo serrano of southern Brazil was pioneering in obtaining the DO in the country, but it is not the only national cheese with a Geographical Indication; queijo canastra, a heritage of Minas Gerais, is another example classified under the IP.
In the case of queijo serrano, the temperature and the high-altitude pastures that feed the supplying cows were decisive factors for the Geographical Indication to result in the unprecedented Designation of Origin.