A popular ingredient in gel polish, known as TPO (trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide), is coming under intense scrutiny from international bodies, which are beginning to remove it from salons. This chemical component, once an integral part of nail care, now raises serious concerns regarding its impact on fertility.
What is TPO and how does it work?
TPO functions as a chemical photoinitiator, enabling the instant curing of gel coatings. When wet nails are exposed to UV or LED lamps, TPO absorbs the light, triggers a rapid chemical reaction, and hardens the liquid, creating a strong, chip-resistant finish.
Reasons for the ban in the UK
Regulators are implementing the ban not because TPO harms natural nails, but due to more serious warnings. European chemical authorities have classified TPO as a substance that potentially can damage fertility or harm an unborn child. However, it should be noted that the official warning is based on laboratory studies conducted on animals given very high, concentrated oral doses of TPO.
According to Caroline Reynoldsford, Director of Science at the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association (CTPA) in the UK, the TPO molecule decomposes itself upon exposure to UV radiation. Any traces remaining after this are permanently trapped inside the solid plastic layer on the nail. Furthermore, the amount of TPO used in standard manicures is a thousand times less than the levels that cause reproductive function problems in laboratories. The international ban is viewed as an extreme, precautionary measure by European governments, rather than proof that current manicures are actively causing harm.
Potential impact of TPO on reproductive health
The essence of the ban is that TPO is an invisible toxin capable of slowly accumulating in the body and disrupting the reproductive system. This is comparable to smoking or inhaling low levels of air pollution: one instance of exposure poses no danger, but prolonged exposure over many years creates a risk.
Regulators' concerns stem from the possibility that manicurists or gel manicure enthusiasts may constantly inhale chemical dust while filing or absorb microscopic amounts through the skin and cuticle for weeks on end. Long-term consequences include:
- Impact on male fertility: With constant contact, TPO affects the male reproductive system, causing physical shrinkage and damage to the testes in scientific tests, which ultimately hinders healthy sperm production and can lead to complete infertility.
- Disruption of the female cycle: For women, prolonged exposure acts as an endocrine disruptor, throwing off the natural hormonal balance and disrupting regular ovulation cycles, making conception difficult.
- Harm to the developing fetus: With continuous exposure during pregnancy, the chemical substance can enter the fetus's body and cause direct harm, potentially leading to developmental problems or birth defects.
Shifting trends and global context
Health authorities are not banning TPO because people are currently getting sick. The ban is driven by changing trends in the beauty industry. If ten years ago gel coatings were applied only occasionally for special occasions, today millions of people wear gel polish constantly, changing color every two weeks, while technicians spend 8–10 hours a day in these chemical fumes.
As the use of these products has become more widespread, scientists have concluded that the risk of accumulating this chemical substance in the body over a lifetime is too high, thus it is being completely excluded to protect the long-term health of all people. Although local regulatory bodies in South Africa have not yet banned TPO, technically local salons can use it indefinitely; however, the beauty industry is entirely global in nature.